The News Blog Food Blog

Thursday, November 09, 2006

Soup



So does your Thanksgiving start with soup or is a post Thanksgiving day treat? Tell us about your soup habits.

103 Comments:

At 9:47 AM, Anonymous Xeno said...

We don't have soups on Turkey Day, but before and after. I like to make a huge pot of soup, then leave it in the fridge for quick meals. Add a slice of corn bread or banana bread and you have a great meal.

These are a couple of simple soup recipes I created myself. They are easy to make and very satisfying.


Carrot & Ginger Soup

2 lbs. carrots (I use pre-peeled baby carrots)

1 large sweet onion, diced

1 quart chicken broth (store bought is fine)

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 tbs ginger, grated or minced

3 tbs canola oil

1 cup milk or half & half

Salt and pepper to taste


Heat the oil in a large pot. Sauté the onions and garlic on medium heat intil translucent. Add the ginger and saute for another two minutes. Add the carrots, chicken broth and salt & pepper. Stir well and cover. Bring the soup to a boil, then reduce it to a simmer. Simmer covered for 90 minutes, or until the carrots are falling apart.

Blend the soup in batches until smooth, or use an immersion blender. Return the blended soup to the pan and stir in the milk or cream. Taste the soup and adjust the seasonings, if necessary. Bring it back up to temperature and serve hot.


Tomato Soup

3 cans whole peeled tomatoes, or 8 medium fresh tomatoes, diced

3 ribs celery, diced

3 carrots, peeled and sliced

1 large onion, diced

1 green bell pepper, diced

1 tbs garlic, minced (or to taste)

3 tbs flour

1 bunch flat leaf parsley, chopped

1 tsp dried basil, or 1/2 cup of fresh basil leaves, chopped

1 tsp dried oregano, or 1 tsp fresh oregano, chopped

3 tbs olive or canola oil

2 bay leaves

Salt & pepper to taste


Heat the oil in a dutch oven or large pot on medium-high heat. Sauté the onions, peppers, carrots, garlic, celery and pepper until onions are translucent. (If using dried herbs, add them at this stage.) Add the flour and stir, cooking for about three minutes. Add the tomatoes; if using whole canned ones, break them up with a spoon or crush them with your hands. Stir well to incorporate the roux and tomatoes. Toss in the bay leaves, and half of the parsley. Bring the soup up to a simmer and cook, covered, for 1 hour. Stir frequently to prevent the soup from sticking or scorching.

Remove the soup from the heat. Take out the bay leaves. Blend the soup using either a regular or immersion blender, but leave some of the texture to the soup. Return to the pot; if you're using fresh basil add it at the very end, along with the rest of the parsley. Heat the soup just until it is back to temperature and the basil is fragrant. Adjust the seasonings and serve.

 
At 10:08 AM, Anonymous GuyFromOhio said...

The Original Jewish Chicken Soup Recipe According to Jen WITH A CRITICAL CORRECTION

All--please see important correction/re-definition below. What I refer to as "icicle turnips" are also more commonly known as...parsnips. Note also that if you just can't find parsnips, tiny turnips are OK also but the soup won't have that special sweetness behind the saltiness that I grew up with.


Jen here again...as promised, my Super Secret Family Chicken Soup Recipe...


Okay, everyone, as per earlier thread, I spent tonight mostly making my familial Chicken Soup recipe in an effort to stave off a Mounting Head Cold. As such, I started to reflect upon Issues Of Mortality and thought that perhaps, being as I have no children, I had better pass this on so that it may be preserved *grin*. In any event, here it is, along with post-preparation tips so that you may make a Full Chicken Soup Dinner, in the grand tradition of my Mom's side of the family, which included my grandpa (may he rest in peace) who worked in the business of processing and selling chickens much of his life, and my grandma, who made it happen.


NOTE: All quantities are very rough and are to be regarded as suggestions, not rules.


Equipstuff:
Big Heavy Pot (I use my Le Creuset 7-qt. round dutch oven)
flame diffuser (optional--I don't use one for this but depending on the size of your pot and the control of your gas burner if you have one you may need it)
Tongs (optional but helpful)
Wooden Spoon
Separate bowl/tupperware for chicken


Time: Many hours.


Attention Span: Once set up, requires attention about every 20 minutes until done.

Ingredients:
1 smallish fryer/broiler chicken (under 5 lbs, more like 3.5-4 if you can find it)(get one with a gut bag if possible)
1 large yellow onion, peeled but otherwise left whole
1 or 2 carrots (or one big baseball-bat cross-sectional giant tough old carrot)
1 or 2 icicle turnips also known as parsnips (ie the ones that look like white carrots)(same sizing rule as for carrots; if you can fine one tough old huge monster, use it)
1 bunch dill, fresh
1 bunch broadleaf or "Italian" parsley, fresh
About 1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
A few celery ribs
A few whole cloves garlic (no more than 4), peeled but not mashed
Salt (kosher or flake)
1 or 2 bullion cubes, chicken flavored or veggie flavored (I use cheapass Knox ones, but you can use the more pricey Knorr, which I sometimes use--if using Knorr use only 1)
(very optional--white wine, left over from previous meal/night)
Super Duper Special Bonus Points Optional--fresh unripe eggs from chicken processor--I have only had this a few times in my life (much in childhood, twice in adulthood)


To prepare: Make sure your pot is clean. Rinse off chicken and put in pot. Rinse off all "parts" in gut bag except for the liver and put in pot (save liver for poaching in boiling soup later if you want, or freeze/save/feed to the cat/etc). Peel the onion and put whole, in the pot. Ditto for garlic. Peel or scrub turnips and carrots and put in also, Wash dill and parsely, cut off root ends, put that in also. Ditto for celery. Put in a palmful of whole black peppercorns. Add a large palmful of salt and put in the unwrapped bullion cubes.


Put in JUST enough water to cover--you don't want to have the pot boil over and you will add more water later. Bring to a brisk boil. If it foams over, just take the lid off and let it boil down a bit until manageable. If necessary, depending on how big a pot you have, use the tongs to turn the chicken over once the fat begins to render out of it. In any event, the veggies will eventually begin to collapse and you will be able to get the lid on (this is where a heavy cast-iron pot is useful). As you cook it down, add water and pour in any white wine that you may have (I used about a cup and a half of decent Chardonnay that I had opened last week--this is a great way to get rid of white that may have been opened too long).


Just keep boiling the bejesus out of the soup until the bones are rather loose on the legs of the chicken. At this point, take out the tongs. If you take hold of the end of a leg bone with said tongs and it pulls out easily, you're ready to go to the next step. First, start by working the tongs in the boiling soup and pull out as many of the large bones and discard. If you press on the breast, it should collapse the body cavity. Pull out whatever other big bones you can--wing, etc. Let any bits of meat that have fallen off into the soup be. Use the tongs to knock the meat off the dark meat areas and let it be in the soup. Then take the tongs and lift the breast out and put on a plate/in a bowl. This should free up a lot of room in the pot; add more water to top it up. If you are lucky enough to have unripe eggs, put them in now. If you want to poach the liver in the soup, this is the time also. Continue to boil for a while until the onion falls apart easily, along with the celery (the root veggies will remain somewhat intact). Remember, you'll have to boil at least an hour and a half-two hours to get the chicken to elegantly disintegrate properly.


The soup will be an odd swampy khaki color but will taste great. DO NOT SKIM THE FAT OFF.
Season with more salt to taste; however, it's a good idea to wait and season per serving, as hot soup tastes less salty when it's first cooked.


Now, you can eat as-is. Or, you could be all fancy and strain it.


Here's what to do next:


With the chicken breast/large bits of meat: Chill. Make the world's best chicken salad or do one of my favorite childhood sammies: Use forks to pull apart the much-cooked breast meat. Take two slices of white bread, spread with ketchup. Make sandwich with white meat. This was one of my absolute favorite lunchbox items as a child. Do NOT get fancy with wholegrain bread on this one--it's white bread or bust.


If you strain the soup (as opposed to just serving it with chunks of meat and veg in it): Carefully sort through the sodden mass of veggies and chicken bits for bits of bone (especially look out for ribs, bits of back, etc). Take bread crumbs or panko flakes and at least one egg. Add salt and pepper but only if needed. Resist the urge to add any other seasoning. Put the mess through a food grinder or a food processor or just mash with a fork, and mix in egg (yes I realize this makes in No Longer Kosher--no cooking mother and child, but it's authentic) and crumbs/panko. Make croquettes and coat in more crumbs/panko. Fry in heavily salted chicken fat.


Let soup cool in the pot; put pot in fridge once it's cool enough to handle. Put away/freeze the next day. Again, keep the fat IN THE SOUP.


The croquettes and boiled chicken, served with soup and the white meat, and either a steamed veg or salad, makes a real, honest-to-G-d "Chicken Soup Dinner" that I grew up with. Serve soup as-is or float bread/crumbly crackers in it. Have with wine to induce instant sleep/head cold abatement.


Enjoy and please share your results if you attempt--link to my email is on the homepage.


PS--read the chicken label carefully! When I went shopping today, I discovered that the smallish chicken that I had tossed into my cart was some kind of organic, free-range thing that went to Harvard or something and cost $13.80. For a fucking 4-pounder. Never again. Shit. This better be the best fucking chicken soup I ever made...


I hope you all like this bit of (Jen's) family history.

Originally posted here:

http://stevegilliard.blogspot.com/2006/11/original-jewish-chicken-soup-recipe.html

 
At 11:00 PM, Anonymous Anh said...

I've made this soup every fall and winter for the last 3 years when we have guests. Use an immersion or stick blender, sit back and wait for all the compliments.
Butternut Squash Soup with Cider Cream
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/15657

Also, my sad little blog has a few recipes on it too. Love to try your chicken soup, Jen.

 
At 11:02 PM, Anonymous Anh said...

http://www.epicurious.com
/recipes/recipe_views/views/15657

the link got cut off...sorry!

 
At 12:13 PM, Blogger Jenonymous said...

Okay, enough people have asked for this recipe that I am going to spill the beans and share my own family Pea Soup Recipe. This is despite the fact that:

A) I'm still waiting for the spice rub that Gilly promised me since my birthday LAST year (he says it's in the mail) and

B) Lower Manhattanite is still holding out on his N.O.I. Bean Pie recipe and

C) It has meat in it (but will list variations), nonkosher meat at that, so some may object.

Having said all that, this is the soup that our own Gilly, Pea Soup Conneseiur and Critic, has dubbed some of the best he's had (other than the pea soup at Cozy's, which gave me massive food poisoning last August, but I digres....).

Note that this makes a very concentrated soup. If you have a big family it may be worth it using a big pot and doubling.

Equipment:

--Bigass heavy pot such as a Dutch Oven and/or enamelware such as Le Creuset
--Flame diffuser (part of Le Secret)

Ingredients:

--1 lb. dried green split peas
--1 high-quality chicken boullion cube (can also be beef, pork, or veggie--I like Knorr; don't use the chalky little foil-wrapped cubes)
--1 packet Goya Sazon sin Annato (ie without annato) (yes, this is the Secret Ingredient, something that my Estonian grandmother hit upon shortly after coming to the States and kept to herself for years)
--1 small white onion, peeled and cut in half
--1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed but not grated (use the flat of a knife)
--1 medium carrot, peeled and cut in half
--salt and pepper to taste (but go REAL easy on the salt initially)
--The HAM. This can be any combo of these: Bone from roasted ham, smoked ham hocks, slices of fresh hock on the bone, chunk of salt pork). I'll get on to other variations further down.
--Lots of water
--Bottle of red wine

Prep Time: Hours and hours--rent a movie

To proceed:

Dump everything EXCEPT RED WINE in a huge pot. Use lots and LOTS of water--you're going to let it boil way down, and add more water, and reboil later. The final product should be totally lump-less but I'll get to that later.

Cover everything in the pot with lots of water and bring to a boil. Cover or partially cover if stuff starts to boil over.

At this point pour yourself a glass of wine.

Keep everything on a slow boil and stir a lot to prevent sticking. Eventually, the carrot, onion, and garlic will liquify and become one with the peas. Keep stirring and refilling your wine as needed. Watching TV while doing this is encouraged--just give it a stir at commercial breaks.

When the meat starts to fall off the bone, uncover partially and start to boil down. If you boil down too fast, don't worry, just add more water--it can always be re-reduced. The goal is to have ALL the meat fall off the bone, for the meat to fall apart, and if you used a whole hambone, for the joints to disconnect and for the cartiledge caps to partially dissolve.

When things get thick, DO put the flame diffuser under the pot. This is how you get really thick, gooey pea soup without scorching or burning. I always use one for my soups. TIME is the other secret ingredient here, as is the multiple reductions of the soup.

When done, still resist the urge to salt or pepper the whole pot. Also, if you can hold off at all, do NOT have any that night. Let it cool and let the whole mess stay overnight in the fridge to get over itself and develop its flavor. You can always salt and pepper individual servings. Texture note: When it comes out of the fridge, it should be thick enough to stand a wooden spoon in.

This freezes tremendously well. A bowl of this and bread, with a side salad or shredded raw veggies on the side is dinner.

NOTE: I usually use 2 kinds of ham--I almost always use a bone from a baked ham and either (in order of preference) fresh hock slices, a piece of smoked hock, or a piece of saltback.


VARIATIONS: Depending on your dietary preferences/religious restrictions, you can also experiment with subs for the ham, with varying results, most of which I haven't tried:

-Smoked turkey legs (but be careful; they frequently taste like nasty liquid smoke--not an encouraged option--this one I DID try and it was not great)
-smoked sausages (ie merguez, etc)
-smoky tempeh, tofu dogs, etc
-good ol hot dogs
-smoked lamb, goat, whatever you got

Happy Cooking!

 
At 3:59 PM, Blogger roxtar said...

LM has the NOI Bean Pie recipe?

I haven't had a Shabazz Bean Pie for 20 years, and I wouldn't know where to find one within 75 miles of where I live.

Fork it over, LM!

 
At 8:41 PM, Blogger Steve said...

Jen,

It was the undercooked hamburger, not the legendary pea soup, which has never made me sick, since 1983 and didn't make me sick that night. And if it was bad, it would have.:)

 
At 12:06 AM, Blogger desmoinesdem said...

Curried pumpkin soup is the appetizer for Thanksgiving, although this year I'll be making it with a big butternut squash. The recipe is very flexible.

Saute a bunch of onions or leeks (I like at least two or three leeks and a huge onion or a few smaller ones) in butter or olive oil. Add chopped or pressed garlic when onion is soft. A minute later, add about a teaspoon of ground coriander and a couple of spoonfuls of curry powder (amount depends on your taste and what brand you are using). You can also add a pinch cayenne.

Add a few cups of broth, bring to boil. Add peeled, cubed pumpkin or winter squash (you can use canned pumpkin if you are lazy--about three cups broth per can pumpkin). Boil again, reduce to simmer, cook until squash is ready.

Add about a half-cup to a cup (depending on your preference) or milk, buttermilk, plain yogurt or heavy cream. Stir in, remove from heat, and puree in batches. Reheat and serve.

 
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At 12:37 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Great soups! Thank you!

 
At 9:30 PM, Anonymous olio said...

I didn't know soup with milk!
I have to make and taste it!
bye :)

 
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At 6:10 PM, Blogger Culinary Curator said...

I am fond of strawberry soup with a dollop of fresh whipped cream on top as an appetizer or a dessert.

 
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